thehealingpilgrim’s travelblog 21

The return to Foncebadon………………….

It wasn’t long before Matavenero was out of sight and i was alone on the track again…….or so i thought. Up ahead of me i saw a hobbling figure that looked from a distance to be a woman. Indeed it was, her name was Rosa! She was about 50 years old and Spanish.

“I have come from Astorga, Where have you come from? Madre mia, a man in a skirt, where do you come from? Is it cold there? It’s too cold here! I have a tent in the woods, it’s okay in the summer but not in the winter! I only have these soft shoes, Oh what lovely boots you have! Are your parents alive? Mine are dead, i have nobody any more! Do you have a house? I don’t have a house, i have nowhere to live! I like Shrewsbury, do you know Shrewsbury? Do you have any food? I have hurt my leg! I don’t know what to do!

“I have some food” i  replied “have some bread”.

“I don’t like bread, do you have any fruit”?

“yes, i have a Kiwi, here take it”. I replied. “If you go to the village in the valley they will help you some more, i’m sure”

“Can i have your address and visit you if i come to your country”?

“Of course you can, maybe we will meet again soon but for now try the village, they are nice there and can help you more i’m sure, see you again, nice to meet you”. I replied before heading back up the track again. 

I arrived back at the Albergue in Foncebadon at about 1.30pm. They were suprised to see me again. I explained that i had spent the last day at Matavenero. They were quite curious to know what i thought of the village and you know this already so no need to speak further on the subject.

I felt quite tired, it was grey and dark outside and i didn’t feel like walking any more for that day so i decided to stay at Foncebadon again.

3 other pilgrims stayed at the Albergue that night. An Italian named Francesco, a Spanish guy named David and a swiss guy named Hans.

I didn’t sleep that well. Hans was another snorer! Doh!


5th Jan Foncebadon – Ponferrada

Overnight, about 4″ of snow had fallen here in the mountains. We decided that if we went as a group together we would be okay to head up into the mountains to the Cruz de Ferro. The Cruz de Ferro is a place where pilgrims traditionally put a stone they have brought with them from home and place at the base of the cross. There are now millions of stones there which have created a mound high enough to climb up. The morning colours as we set off up to the mountain were very dramatic and atmospheric. The sunrise was absolutely amazing and came up just as we reached the cross of iron ( cruz de fero ) .

Posted from ES
posted Sat Feb 06, 2010

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